AFE - bow lift design - stage 1

AE1009-R Ultralite(2006)
AE1009-Y Advanced Frame Expedition(2007-Present)

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chuckiek1
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2010 4:09 pm

AFE - bow lift design - stage 1

Post by chuckiek1 » Fri Mar 25, 2011 6:43 am

Okey-doh-key. We all need this so:

I used what's in the local bush: bamboo.
4 pieces:
1 X 25" X 1 1/2" diameter - split in half for rails
1 X 19 5/8" X 5/16" - rear crossmember
1 X 14 3/8" X 3/8" - front crossmember

- The crossmembers were split off the original piece with a larger outside surface area and then "planed" down to meet the inside surface area
- The ends of the crossmembers were brought down to a dull point for insertion into the holes drilled into the rails
- The crossmembers were inserted "inside-up" to increase their strength; it felt like that when they were flexed
-The 25's sit on the bow side of the inflate tubes of the bow lifters.
-The holes for the crossmembers were placed on the bottom side of the 25's so as to supply a higher reverse force when the deck was zipped.
-The 19"er was designed to flex and stretch the deck within a comfortable margin and to repel water towards the bow and/or off to the side of the cockpit.
-The 14"er was designed for reverse force on the 19"er ( ie. to keep it all in place ).
-The widths were varied because flex was needed towards the cockpit more so than the front.
-The front lifters were inflated, then the crossmembers were put in place, and then the deck was zipped up.

If appears that it will work fine. I'm out tomorrow for testing.

Next stage:
Find some more bamboo:
- Make the rails one round piece, and insert crossmembers in completely since the front crossmember/rail combination seems to want to slide further into the deck lift than I like. Thus I'll need some larger diameter bamboo
- Try making crossmembers without the same outside and inside surface area as there should be an increase in strength one way over the other. The question is the physics...ahem...anyone out there an engineer?
- Find some bamboo with sections long enough so that the crossmembers are one complete piece; at present they span a "link" and this creates problems with: flex and trueness of grain.

http://pix.nakshinam.com/main.php?g2_itemId=39

dspid2404
Posts: 293
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 4:48 pm
Location: Virginia, U.S.A.

Post by dspid2404 » Sat Mar 26, 2011 3:31 am

I look forward to seeing how it works. In the meantime, this subject comes up alot once the kayaking season gets going so I thought I'd get a jump on it. This is a great design that Pearly came up with and is the best I've seen yet. Thank you Pearly. It was originally designed for the Expedition and I assume would work in the AF as well. You can find dimensional information on Pearly's forum link just past half way down the page:

http://www.advancedelements.com/phpBB2/ ... c&start=90

The advantage to this design is that it fits great and can be retrofitted to suite your needs. It also raising the deck and gives a nice taut surface to lay or store things on.

Custom Retrofit - Instead of a tube facing upward to go through the zipper just in front of the cockpit coaming (for a fishfinder, the way Pearly designed it) I put a four way connector that allows me to use custom adapters for various uses. This particular adapter I use for holding my camera when mounted to a monopod. The foot of the monopod fits snugly into the adapter hole. Putting the adapters in one way will come out behind the coaming

Image
Deck Lift 2 by dspidaliere, on Flickr

and the other will come out in front of the coaming, if you need to use a skirt or for some other reason where it would be in the way. You might add a pin to hold the adapters from moving but in my case it doesn't require it. The friction fit works fine. I also made an adapter to hold a fishing pole and will allow you to tilt the rod over either side of the kayak. However I broke it while putting the rear seat up in my vehicle. Oh well. That adapter requires a pin to hold it in place, which I haven't added as of yet. The possibilities are endless. That is why I like this design.


Image
Deck Lift 1 by dspidaliere, on Flickr

Anyway I thought I put this design back up on the forum since the subject comes up quite often once people get back out on the water. Give it a try. Its easy to make and works great.
Don (dspid2404)

dspid2404
Posts: 293
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 4:48 pm
Location: Virginia, U.S.A.

Post by dspid2404 » Sat Apr 16, 2011 6:50 pm

ChuckieK1 how did the baboo design work? Never heard back from you.

chuckiek1
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2010 4:09 pm

been out and about

Post by chuckiek1 » Wed May 11, 2011 8:45 am

Yep, I'm like the cat that has come back ( from a paddle: once a week whether I need it or not - flounder season is on! ); all scrawny and hungry.

The furthest cross-member ( from the paddler ) is a no go. The torsion created from the reduction in width of the bow causes it to bow/curve forward as opposed to upward. Thus a design implementing a forward bow is in the works. The closed cross-member is OK.

That being said, I've reduced my Y-axis paddling range ( concentrating on a more horizontal paddle dip ) and thus reduced the amount of water coming onto the combing. That in conjunction with my knees being bent has really reduced the amount of water coming into the cockpit.

Will be advising, but end of semester is coming and I've still got to finish my lab manual and create final exams so hang tight.

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